A car might look perfect. The seller seems genuine. The price is right. But hidden beneath the surface could be outstanding finance, a write-off history, or clocked mileage. A history check reveals what the seller might not.
What Does a History Check Cover?
Outstanding Finance
The most critical check. If the previous owner took out finance and didn't settle it, the finance company still owns the car. They can legally repossess it – from you.
What it shows:
- Whether finance is currently registered against the car
- Which finance company holds the agreement
- Approximate outstanding amount (sometimes)
Important: A clear check means no finance is registered NOW. It doesn't guarantee the seller will settle any finance before selling.
Write-Off Status
If a car has been written off by an insurance company, it's categorised:
- Category A: Scrap only – should never be on the road
- Category B: Body shell destroyed, parts can be salvaged
- Category S: Structural damage but can be repaired (previously Cat C/D)
- Category N: Non-structural damage, repairable (previously Cat D)
Write-off history significantly affects value and may indicate hidden problems from poor repairs.
Stolen Status
Checks against the Police National Computer to see if the car has been reported stolen.
Mileage Discrepancies
Cross-references recorded mileages from:
- MOT tests
- Service records
- Previous history checks
- Finance agreements
Identifies potential clocking where mileage has been fraudulently reduced.
Plate Changes
Shows if the registration number has been changed. Sometimes used to hide a car's history.
Previous Keepers
Number of registered owners. Many owners in a short time can indicate problems.
Import/Export Status
Whether the car was originally UK-registered or imported. Grey imports may have different specifications and can be harder to insure/service.
VIC (Vehicle Identity Check)
Whether the car has been through the DVLA's identity check process – often required for rebuilt write-offs.
Which Service Should You Use?
HPI Check
The original and most well-known. "HPI" has become a generic term like "Hoover."
- Cost: Around £20-30 for full check
- Data sources: Finance companies, insurers, DVLA, police
- Guarantees: Offers financial guarantee if data is wrong
AA/RAC History Checks
- Cost: £8-20
- Reputation: Trusted brands
- Integration: Can combine with inspections
AutoTrader
- Cost: Free basic check; full check £8-15
- Access: Convenient when browsing listings
- Data: Similar sources to others
DVLA Services
Free checks available:
- MOT history (gov.uk)
- Tax status
- First registration date
- Engine size
Doesn't include finance or write-off data.
Specialist Services
- Experian AutoCheck
- mycarcheck.com
- Total Car Check
All access similar data sources. Prices and interfaces vary.
How to Read the Results
Finance Check: Clear
Good news, but verify the seller will settle any recent finance. Checks only show registered agreements – a very recent loan might not appear immediately.
Finance Check: Finance Registered
Stop. Either:
- Walk away
- Require the seller to settle finance before completion
- Use an escrow service that settles finance from sale proceeds
Never buy a car with outstanding finance and assume it'll be sorted later.
Write-Off: Cat S or N
The car has been in an accident serious enough for an insurance write-off but has been repaired.
Consider:
- Quality of repair (get an inspection)
- Impact on value (should be priced lower)
- Insurance implications (some insurers won't cover)
- Your comfort level with accident history
Write-Off: Cat A or B
This car should not be on the road. If you find one for sale, something is very wrong.
Mileage Discrepancy
Recorded mileages should always increase. If they decrease, either:
- Clerical error (rare)
- Mileage clocking (fraud)
Investigate before proceeding. Check service history stamps.
Plate Change
Not automatically suspicious (personalised plates are common), but verify the full history follows through the change.
Multiple Keepers
Five owners in three years? There may be a reason people keep selling it. Not a deal-breaker but worth investigating.
Stolen Marker
Do not proceed. Even if the seller seems genuine, buying a stolen car means losing it.
The Free vs Paid Question
Free Checks (MOT History, Tax Status)
Valuable but limited. They don't cover:
- Finance
- Write-off status
- Stolen status
- Mileage from non-MOT sources
Paid Checks (£10-30)
Cover everything. For a £10,000 car, spending £20 on a proper check is obvious. Even for cheaper cars, it's worthwhile insurance.
When to Check
- Before viewing: Don't waste time on problem cars
- After viewing, before paying: Confirm everything is as described
- For valuable cars: Consider multiple services to cross-reference
Limitations of History Checks
Recent Events May Not Appear
Finance registered yesterday might not show. Write-offs take time to process. Checks are snapshots, not guarantees.
Data Errors Exist
Occasionally, legitimate cars show false flags. If a check shows something unexpected, investigate before walking away automatically.
Private Finance
If someone took a personal loan (not car finance) to buy the car, this won't show. The car can still be repossessed for other debts.
Foreign History
Cars imported from abroad may have histories that don't appear in UK databases. Be especially cautious with imports.
Repairs and Quality
A check shows IF a car was written off. It doesn't show HOW WELL it was repaired. That requires physical inspection.
What to Do with the Information
All Clear
Great – proceed with physical inspection and purchase. The check doesn't replace viewing the car but gives confidence.
Finance Outstanding
Either walk away or ensure settlement before completion. Document everything if proceeding.
Write-Off History
Factor into your decision:
- Is the price adjusted for the history?
- Can you get an inspection to verify repair quality?
- Are you comfortable with the residual risk?
- Can you insure it?
Mileage Concerns
Get answers before proceeding. Service history with stamps can verify mileage. If the seller can't explain discrepancies, walk away.
Stolen Marker
Don't buy. Report to police. The seller may be innocent or may be a thief.
Protecting Yourself Further
Verify VIN
The VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) should match:
- V5C document
- Dashboard plate
- Door frame plate
- History check results
Mismatched VINs indicate cloning or fraud.
Check the V5C
Is it the new-style document (post-2019)? Does the keeper match the seller? Is the address believable?
Physical Inspection
History checks catch hidden problems. Physical inspections catch visible ones. Use both.
Pay Securely
Bank transfer is common but offers little protection. Credit card or finance provides Section 75 protection. Never pay cash without documentation.
If You've Already Bought
Finance Appears After Purchase
- You may have rights against the seller for misrepresentation
- Contact the finance company – they sometimes negotiate
- Seek legal advice for significant amounts
Write-Off Not Disclosed
If a dealer sold you a written-off car without disclosure, this may breach the Consumer Rights Act (not "as described"). You may be able to reject.
Car Was Stolen
You'll lose the car (it belongs to the original owner), but:
- Claim against the seller if traceable
- Report to police
- Check if your own insurance covers theft recovery
The Bottom Line
A history check costs £20-30 and takes five minutes. It can save you:
- Thousands in lost money from finance repossession
- The heartbreak of losing a stolen car
- Buying a dangerous poorly-repaired write-off
- Fraud from clocked mileage
There's no good reason to skip it. Run a check on every used car before you buy, regardless of how trustworthy the seller seems.
Already bought a car that had hidden history? Check if you qualify – misdescription is grounds for rejection.
Related Topics
.jpg&w=3840&q=75)
